August 07, 2025

Collagen and How to Bank It

Collagen has long been the star of the anti-aging conversation—and for good reason. At Céla, we've crafted a complete skincare ritual designed to amplify your skin’s natural collagen production while safeguarding the delicate cellular structures and fibers that support youthful radiance. But before we explore how to bank collagen and protect what you’ve got, let’s uncover what collagen really is—and why it holds the key to a long-term ageless glow. 

 

Collagen structure

Collagen is a protein composed of repeating units of amino acids, which come together forming a long chain (Wu et al., 2023). The general sequence of a collagen chain is Glycine-X-Hydroxyproline or Glycine-Proline-X, where X could be a variety of amino acids. Amino acids are the building blocks of all proteins, and they vary in size with Glycine being the smallest. Proline and Hydroxyproline constitute ⅙, and Glycine ⅓, of collagen’s total amino acids. The long chains are wrapped together to form a strong triple helix. Collagen triple helices come together to form collagen fibrils, and fibrils come together to form collagen fibres. Glycine, being very small, allows the collagen fibres to be wrapped tightly together (Wu et al., 2023). Because of this collagen fibers are strong, tensile, and resist stretch. 

(MINERVA Research Labs Ltd - London, from Reilly & Lozano, 2021). 


Collagen and the skin

The skin has three layers. The hypodermis is the lowest layer and is mostly adipose (fat) tissue. The dermis is the next layer, and is full of collagen and elastin (another fibrous protein also produced by fibroblasts). These two lower layers support the epidermis; the outermost layer of the skin. The epidermis does not contain any blood vessels or any collagen. Nutrients get passed over from the dermal layer to the stratum basale of the epidermis. The stratum basale is the bottom layer of the epidermis and this is where new cell growth occurs. Old cells, the prominent cell type being keratinocytes, get pushed up from the stratum basale where they eventually fill with keratin and form a protective layer against environmental stressors. Collagen provides support for the outer layers of the skin, and preserves the skin’s elasticity and firmness (Reilly & Lozano, 2018). 

(Lumen Learning)


Production of collagen

Collagen is produced by fibroblasts, a type of cell that is responsible for secreting the extracellular matrix (ECM) in connective tissue, as well as collagen and elastin. Connective tissue is found all throughout the body and it connects, supports, and separates organs and tissues. The most common protein in connective tissue, making up 90% of the protein, is collagen. Elastin is thinner than collagen and has strong stretch and recoil properties. It makes up around 2% to 4% of protein in the skin (Liu et al., 2020).

Collagen is made intracellularly and undergoes post-translational modifications both in the cell and again outside of the cell (Wu et al., 2023). Some of the processes involved in collagen synthesis and modifications require certain vitamins and minerals to complete the step, like Vitamin C or Copper. Once collagen is modified, it becomes active and supports the skin. Both collagen and elastin are active for many years in the skin and throughout the body. 


Aging skin

As we get older our body’s functions will naturally decline, and even more so as we are exposed to varying levels of environmental stressors. We can protect ourselves against these environmental stressors, such as smoke, pollution, sun exposure, stress, and high-sugar diets, but we also have an intrinsic aging process that cannot be prevented. There are a few key factors that contribute to visible signs of aging, so we will dive into those and then into ways to mitigate them. 

Collagen:

Collagen is a long-lasting protein in the body, and though strong, the cumulative damage from lifestyle and stress can degrade collagen fibres (Reilly & Lozano, 2018). The biggest change in skin as we age are the quantitative and structural changes in collagen (Shin et al., 2019). Young skin has abundant tightly packed and well-organized collagen fibres. As our skin ages there is a decrease in collagen production, an increase in collagen degradation, and more damage to the collagen fibres than can be repaired (Shin et al., 2019). Starting from the age of 25, collagen production decreases about 1.0-1.5% per year (Reilly & Lozano, 2021). In post-menopausal women the decline in collagen content was observed to be 2.1% per year for the first 15 to 18 years after menopause (Reilly & Lozano, 2021). In aged and photoaged skin – aging caused by UV damage – the connective tissue in the dermis contains abnormalities, with disorganized collagen fibre bundles, decreased amount, and thinning of the bundles themselves (Varani et al., 1999).


Fibroblasts:

Fibroblasts, the cells that synthesize collagen, decrease in number, size, and in function with age. Fibroblasts also produce other components of the extracellular matrix – which surrounds the cells in the dermis. The production of which also declines with age and with the decline in fibroblast number (Shin et al., 2019). Further deterioration of the dermis occurs from the decline in collagen, and in a snowball effect, the ECM degradation hinders fibroblast attachment, causing a decline in fibroblast function and thus further decreasing the amount of collagen (Shin et al., 2025). 


Decline in hyaluronic acid:

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a type of glycosaminoglycan (GAG); a sugar molecule that makes up most of the extracellular matrix (ECM) that surrounds the skin cells. Around 50% of the body’s HA is in the skin (Papakonstantinou et al., 2012). Most abundant in the papillary dermal layer closest to the epidermis, HA is responsible for attracting water to the epidermis, filling space between cells and fibres, absorbing shock. HA induces type 1 collagen synthesis through increasing the activity of a signaling pathway in fibroblasts –  HA also increases growth of fibroblasts themselves (Shin et al., 2019). As our skin ages the levels of HA decrease in the skin, giving a dull and sagging appearance. Though further research must be done on the effects of HA on collagen, it has been observed that when HA is injected into the skin, the amount of collagen noticeably increases for up to 3 months after the injection (Haddad et al., 2022). This is why HA injections are so popular, but topical applications only provide the benefit of hydration. 


Collagen banking

Collagen banking is a new trend that has taken over the skincare world in 2025. Instead of beginning to implement anti-aging treatments as we notice the years on our skin, collagen banking involves implementing preventative measures to age. Collagen banking starts younger, ideally around the mid-twenties when collagen production is at its peak. It involves procedures, topical products, or ingesting supplements to produce as much collagen as possible so as skin ages it has a bank of collagen to fall back on. 

One popular example of in-office treatments is microneedling. Microneedling is a minimally invasive procedure that causes microdamage in the skin, calling on the body’s natural repair system to produce more collagen. A licensed professional will use thin needles to create small holes in the top layer of the skin. The skin responds by increasing collagen production and repairing the skin’s top layer. Radiofrequency, ultrasound therapies, and mesotherapies are other treatments that work to increase collagen production. 

Ingesting collagen supplements has recently garnered a lot of popularity. While it won't hurt, it doesn't directly help the skin to look more youthful. Collagen is too large to be absorbed, so the body breaks it down into smaller peptides or individual amino acids. Moreover you cannot direct the protein to one area over another. Collagen is a structural protein that is required almost everywhere throughout the body, so consuming collagen-rich foods will always help, though it may not provide fast apparent results for your skin. 

Applying skincare is the best way to direct collagen banking to the skin. There are some super-star ingredients in skincare that have collaging boosting properties. Some work by preserving existing collagen and preventing damage from the environment. Antioxidants, such as Vitamin A, C, and E, remove free radicals which cause damage at a cellular level. Other ingredients work by increasing collagen production, either by signaling for the production of collagen, supporting fibroblast proliferation and thereby activity, act as cofactors or provide building blocks for collagen synthesis. Retinol, AHAs/BHAs, and niacinamide are just some examples of ingredients with these properties. 

 

Antiaging ingredients to boost collagen 

Niacinamide:

  • Antioxidant: prevents oxidative stress from damaging collagen fibres, preventing extrinsic aging (Marques et al., 2024).

  • Inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines which accelerate the degradation of the extracellular matrix, reducing inflammation and promoting supple and youthful skin (Marques et al., 2024). 

  • Promotes differentiation of the skin cells keratinocytes (Tran et al., 2014) while also preventing skin cells - keratinocytes and fibroblasts - from going into a state of arrest (Marques et al., 2024).

  • Increases production of collagen and ceramides in the skin (Tran et al., 2014).

Vitamin C:

  • Involved in the synthesis of collagen and elastin, by acting as a cofactor for the enzymes which hydroxylases the amino acid proline to form hydroxyproline (Shin et al., 2019), an important amino acid for collagen!

  • An antioxidant that reduces free radicals, ROS, and helps restore the antioxidant capacity of Vitamin E, helping to protect the integrity of collagen and elastin from oxidative stress

  • Induces collagen synthesis in fibroblasts, increasing skin suppleness and increasing thickness of the dermal layer (Shin et al., 2019) 

Bakuchiol/Vitamin A/Retinol: 

  • Antioxidant, meaning it prevents damage to collagen and other cellular components caused by free radicals. 

  • Bakuchiol increases collagen biosynthesis, decreases collagen degradation, decreases pro-inflammatory cytokines – which degrade the ECM – and overall maintain cell and DNA health through their antioxidant capabilities (Nizam et al., 2023)

  • Vitamin A increased MRNA expression of type I and III collagen, with findings indicating retinol increased type I procollagen MRNA by 2.8 times (Varani et al., 1999). 

  • Retinoids and bakuchiol inhibit collagenase; the enzyme that degrades collagen (Shin et al., 2019). 

  • Vitamin A and related derivatives organize components of the ECM, including reorganizing elastic fibres and GAG deposits (Shin et al., 2019). 

AHAs:

  • AHAs, with the most observed being glycolic acid, increased collagen levels in the dermis (Tran et al., 2014, Narda et al., 2020). 

  • Increased the thickness of the outer protective layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, as well as increased cell turnover for the epidermis (Narda et al., 2020). 

Chaga Mushrooms:

  • Has one of the highest oxygen radical absorption capacities, being especially rich in superoxide dismutase (SOD). SOD neutralizes free radicals caused by the mitochondrial metabolism. 

  • High concentration of betulinic acid which stimulates collagen production in fibroblasts (Cho et al., 1996). 

Red maple bark extract:

  • Red maple glucitol-core containing gallotannin (GCGs) inhibits elastase; the enzyme that degrades elastin in the skin. Elastin is crucial for the skin to maintain its shape and stretch/recoil properties (Liu et al., 2020).

  • Antioxidant properties to combat environmental stressors that degrade collagen and elastin, thus maintaining healthy skin (Liu et al., 2020).


Shop collagen boosters

Essential Face Moisturizer

Contains niacinamide, Vitamin E (a potent anti-oxidant), amongst other extremely hydrating and nourishing ingredients, to boost collagen production, sooth inflammation, and hydrate your skin. 

 

Northern Eye Cream

Rich in sensitive-skin-friendly Bakuchiol, this eye cream stimulates collagen production, reducing visible signs of aging around the eyes. Bakuchiol works to create healthy skin cells and protect DNA from damage. Combining this powerhouse anti-aging agent with shea butter, sunflower oil, and Oceanic Mineral Water, the skin is hydrated, soothed, and the skin's peptide barrier is replenished. 

 

Northern Face Oil

With Red Maple Bark Extract which prevents degradation of the elastin protein in our skin along with antioxidants, protecting collagen from environmental stressors. The face oil combines this with a mix of nourishing oils to keep your skin hydrated and protected. 

 

Intensive Mineral Serum

With two power-house ingredients, Chaga Mushrooms and Red Maple Bark Extract, the intensive mineral serum visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles, while protecting the collagen and elastin fibres in the skin from intrinsic and extrinsic aging processes. The Vitamin C protects the cells from environmental stressors like UV damage, while the calming Glacial Mineral Water and Lichen, Fern and Moss Extract nourish and hydrate the skin. 

 

References

Cho SH, Gottlieb K, Santhanam U. Cosmetic compositions containing betulinic acid. United States Patent. Patent Number. 1996;5:529–529.

Haddad, S., Galadari, H., Patil, A., Goldust, M., Al Salam, S., & Guida, S. (2022). Evaluation of the biostimulatory effects and the level of neocollagenesis of dermal fillers: A Review. International Journal of Dermatology, 61(10), 1284–1288. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.16229 

Liu, C., Xu, Y., Kirk, R. D., Li, H., Li, D., DaSilva, N. A., Bertin, M. J., Seeram, N. P., & Ma, H. (2020). Inhibitory effects of skin permeable glucitol-core containing gallotannins from red maple leaves on elastase and their protective effects on human keratinocytes. Journal of Functional Foods, 75, 104208. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jff.2020.104208 

Marques, C., Hadjab, F., Porcello, A., Lourenço, K., Scaletta, C., Abdel-Sayed, P., Hirt-Burri, N., Applegate, L. A., & Laurent, A. (2024). Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products. Antioxidants (Basel, Switzerland), 13(4), 425. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox13040425 

Narda, M., Trullas, C., Brown, A., Piquero‐Casals, J., Granger, C., & Fabbrocini, G. (2020). Glycolic acid adjusted to ph 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory tnf‐alpha in human skin explants. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20(2), 513–521. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13570 

Nizam, N. N., Mahmud, S., Ark, S. M. A., Kamruzzaman, M., & Hasan, M. K. (2023). Bakuchiol, a natural constituent and its pharmacological benefits. F1000Research, 12, 29. https://doi.org/10.12688/f1000research.129072.2

Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253–258. https://doi.org/10.4161/derm.21923 

Reilly DM, Lozano J. Skin collagen through the lifestages: importance for skin health and beauty. Plast Aesthet Res. 2021;8:2. http://dx.doi.org/10.20517/2347-9264.2020.153 

Shin, J. W., Kwon, S. H., Choi, J. Y., Na, J. I., Huh, C. H., Choi, H. R., & Park, K. C. (2019). Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches. International journal of molecular sciences, 20(9), 2126. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms20092126 

Tran, D., Townley, J. P., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2014). An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 8, 9–17. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S75439 

Varani, J., Warner, R. L., Gharaee-Kermani, M., Phan, S. H., Kang, S., Chung, J., Wang, Z., Datta, S. C., Fisher, G. J., & Voorhees, J. J. (1999). Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 114(3), 480–486. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1523-1747.2000.00902.x 

Wu M, Cronin K, Crane JS. Biochemistry, Collagen Synthesis. [Updated 2023 Sep 4]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2025 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK507709/ 

Written by Céla Team